PRODUCTS
Pocket doors are one of the smartest ways to save space without sacrificing design.
Pocket doors slide into a concealed wall cavity, freeing up valuable floor area and allowing tighter rooms to function more efficiently. That makes them especially useful in bathrooms, closets, pantries, offices and compact interior transitions.
A steel-and-glass pocket door keeps the room feeling open and bright while still defining zones when privacy is needed. The slim frame aesthetic also pairs well with contemporary and transitional interiors.
For homeowners who want flexibility and a clean architectural finish in a smaller footprint, pocket doors are a practical and polished choice.
Need help choosing the right configuration? Visit our product catalog or request a quote and we will help match the design to your opening, layout and finish preferences.

A pocket door slides horizontally into a cavity built inside the adjacent wall. When it is open the panel is completely concealed, leaving the opening clear and the wall surface uninterrupted. Nothing projects into the room, nothing parks in the opening and there is no visible parked panel the way there is with a surface-mounted slider.
That total disappearance is the reason to choose the format. A pocket system gives you the full clear width of the opening with no swing radius, no stack depth at the jamb and no leaf standing against a wall. On a plan where every square foot is committed, it is often the only door type that fits.
The trade is that the pocket has to exist. Wall thickness, the structural framing and the services running through that wall all have to accommodate a cavity slightly wider than the panel. This is a decision made during design and framing, not afterwards, and it is why pocket doors are far more common in new construction and gut renovations than in light remodels.
The panel withdraws entirely into the wall cavity, so the opening reads as a clean structural aperture with no visible door in either direction.
The panel hangs from a track at the head, so the floor stays clear with no bottom channel to collect dust or interrupt the flooring. Carriages are specified against the glazed panel weight.
Steel's stiffness lets the panel stay thin, which directly reduces the cavity width the wall has to accommodate. On an interior wall where thickness is tight, that can be what makes the pocket viable at all.
One panel into one wall, or two panels withdrawing into opposite walls to clear a very wide opening from a center meeting point.
Recessed pulls sit within the panel face so nothing catches on the pocket jamb as the door withdraws, with an edge pull to draw the panel back out of the cavity.
Full-lite glazing for light transfer between rooms, divided lites for a more structured look, or a solid steel panel where the requirement is separation rather than daylight.
Pocket doors solve a specific problem: an opening that needs a door but has nowhere to put one.
Pocket systems are drawn to the opening and the wall build-up together. These are the choices involved.
A single panel into one wall for a standard opening, or two panels meeting in the center and withdrawing into opposite walls where the opening is wide and both flanking walls can take a cavity.
Full-lite for maximum light transfer, divided lites for a structured grid, obscured glass where a bathroom or dressing room needs privacy, or solid steel. Review the glass options.
Matte black, bronze, graphite, warm grays or clear-coated raw steel. Interior pocket panels are often matched to steel interior doors elsewhere in the house.
Thinner panels reduce the required cavity width, which matters where the wall is already tight. We work the panel section against the wall build-up rather than assuming a standard thickness.
The cavity can be framed so the pocket jamb reads as a shadow gap or is concealed entirely behind the finished wall surface, depending on how visible you want the opening to be.
Flush recessed pulls, edge pulls and optional soft-close mechanisms. Privacy locking is available where the opening serves a bathroom or bedroom. See the lockset options.
Panels are fabricated from steel sections, welded at the corners, dressed and ground so both faces are flat and the edges read as continuous lines. Flatness matters more on a pocket panel than on almost any other door, because a panel with any twist in it will contact the pocket jamb as it withdraws and the resulting rub is both audible and damaging to the finish.
Each panel is hung on its carriages and run through the full travel in the shop before finishing. Carriage height, panel plumb and clearance to the pocket jamb are set there. Once the wall is closed up, access to the inside of a pocket is limited, so adjustments that are routine in the shop become genuinely difficult afterwards.
Finishing runs through degreasing, mechanical preparation and a coating system appropriate to the application. Interior panels can take finishes that would not survive outdoors, which widens the range considerably. Glazing is bedded so units carry no load through the edge seal.
Coordination with the framing contractor is part of the job. The rough cavity has to be built to the right width, plumb, and clear of plumbing and electrical, and the header has to carry the panel. We provide the framing dimensions early and confirm the pocket before fabrication, because a cavity built to the wrong dimension is expensive to correct once the wall is finished.
Separating a bedroom from a dressing area or bathroom, where a swinging door would conflict with cabinetry or fixtures.
An opening that stays open most of the time and closes for calls, which is exactly the use pattern a pocket door suits.
Where a swing door would block a walkway or foul a run of cabinetry every time it opened.
Closing off a living space from a dining room or media room when required, then disappearing completely the rest of the time.
Where the swing radius of a conventional door simply cannot be accommodated alongside the fixtures.
Exterior pocket systems that withdraw a glazed panel into the wall are possible where the cavity can be designed and weatherproofed from the outset.
Pocket doors succeed or fail on coordination that happens long before the door is delivered. The cavity has to be framed to the right dimension, plumb and free of services, and the header has to carry a top-hung load. We provide those requirements early and verify the built cavity before fabrication, which is the step that prevents the expensive discovery that a finished pocket is a half inch too narrow.
Because we design, engineer, fabricate and install in house, the panel is drawn to the cavity that actually exists rather than to the one on the drawing. On a product where post-installation access is limited, building to the verified condition is not a refinement, it is the whole basis of getting it right.
We work with Austin architects, custom builders and homeowners on new construction and full renovations across the greater Austin area and Central Texas, with projects in Dallas, Houston, San Antonio and Fort Worth. Completed work is on our projects page, and fitting is described on the installation page.
Quotes include the fabricated panel, track and carriage hardware, glass, pulls, locking where specified and professional installation, priced against your opening and wall build-up.
Sometimes, but it requires opening that wall up. The cavity has to be framed, the header has to carry the top-hung load, and any plumbing or electrical in that stud bay has to be rerouted. In practice this makes pocket doors a natural fit for new construction and gut renovations, and a more involved proposition in a light remodel. We will tell you honestly which situation you are in after a site visit.
Slightly wider than the panel thickness plus clearance, and the exact dimension depends on the panel section we specify. This is one reason steel helps: a stiff steel panel can be thinner than the equivalent in other materials, so the cavity is narrower. We provide the framing dimension in writing before the wall is built.
Less than a well-sealed swinging door, because a pocket door cannot compress against seals on all four sides the way a swing door does. For a study or bathroom it is usually adequate. Where acoustic separation genuinely matters, we would suggest a swinging steel interior door or a French pair instead, and we will say so rather than sell you the wrong product.
With a properly specified top-hung system it should not, because the carriages are rated above the panel weight and retained on the track. We also detail the pocket so the panel can be withdrawn for service if it is ever needed. Access planning is part of the design, since a system that cannot be serviced without demolition is a poor design regardless of how well it runs on day one.
They can, in new construction where the cavity is designed and weatherproofed from the start. The pocket has to be detailed to keep water and insects out of the wall, which is a genuine building envelope question rather than a door question. On existing buildings we more often recommend a surface-mounted slider, which is far simpler to weatherproof reliably.
Yes, and they are common. Full-lite glazing lets light pass between rooms while the door is closed, which is often the point of using one in an interior plan. Obscured glass gives privacy while still transmitting light, which suits bathrooms and dressing rooms.
Very little. Keep the track clear, check the carriage adjustment if the panel starts to feel different, and wipe the panel faces as you would any interior surface. Because the running gear is at the head rather than the floor, pocket doors avoid the grit problems that affect bottom-rolling systems.
Talk to us early, ideally before the wall is framed. Send us the opening dimensions and the wall build-up and we will provide the cavity requirements and a quote for your steel pocket doors. Serving Austin and Central Texas, with projects across Dallas, Houston, San Antonio and Fort Worth.